When you see that the mounting bar from your wing rigger has worn a groove in the mounting blocks you know that the adjustment of the set screw is past due:
Mounting bar from your wing rigger has worn a groove in the mounting blocks
Proper adjustment keeps the mounting bar 1/2 mm (.02″) above the block and the screw should be adjusted so that the mounting bar is about 1/2 to 1 mm away from the vertical face of the mounting block.
Proper adjustment of set screw
Did you know…it’s so easy to attach the wing rigger to a Van Dusen Advantage? Simply set the wing rigger’s mounting bars into place between the boat’s mounting blocks, check that the footboard heel bar is securely in one of the stretcher fitting slots, tighten the thumb screws, and you’re ready to go. You don’t even need tools! With this innovative concept, you can transfer your wing riggers between boats or seats while keeping your personal rigging specifications intact–including your foot position and footboard angle. And the simplicity of removing the wings makes it easy to store two boats to a rack. Great for clubs looking to more efficiently utilize their rack space. The Van Dusen wing riggers are one of Van Dusen’s many “Advantages”!
Dimensions of the Advantage and our previous model, the Traditional
| Dimensions of Van Dusen Shells | |||
| Length Overall | Waterline Beam | Maximum Depth | |
| Advantage Hulls: | |||
| Advantage Flyweight 1x: | 25.15 ft | 9.58 in | 8.72 in |
| Advantage Lightweight 1x: | 25.98 ft | 9.64 in | 8.72 in |
| Advantage Heavyweight 1x: | 26.49 ft | 10.38 in | 9.00 in |
| Advantage Lightweight 2x/2-: | 32.54 ft | 13.46 in | 9.90 in |
| Advantage Heavyweight 2x/2-: | 33.53 ft | 14.11 in | 10.17 in |
| Traditional Hulls: | |||
| Lightweight 1x: | 25.89 ft | 8.92 in | 10.50 in |
| Midweight 1x: | 26.51 ft | 10.00 in | 10.50 in |
| Heavyweight 1x: | 26.50 ft | 11.60 in | 10.25 in |
| Double/ pair: | 31.51 ft | 13.70 in | 11.25 in |
We are one of the few companies offering repair services for all brands of rowing shells.
Composite Engineering Inc. provides repair services for all of our boats and products. We also repair rowing shells and kayaks manufactured by other companies. At Composite Engineering, our repair work is second to none. No matter what type of damage your shell has sustained, we can fix it so it looks brand new and regains its structural integrity. We repair all sorts of carbon composite products and have repaired racing shells, automotive parts, and wheel chairs.
Advantage or Traditional with wing rigger
Most rigging adjustments can be made with a 3/16” allen wrench and an adjustable wrenc
To attach and remove wing rigger – use the large thumbscrews on the wing – NO tools
To change the spread:
Lockplate bolt – 5/32” allen wrench
Lockplate nut (white wing) – 7/16” hex wrench (socket, open end, etc.) (11mm OK)
Lockplate nut (black wing) – 10mm hex wrench
To change the height of the oarlocks:
Top-of-pin nut – 10mm (for titanium pins) or 13mm (for stainless steel pins) hex wrench
Lockplate nut and top-of-pin nut – adjustable wrench is fine
To change the footboard position on the wing mounting bars:
Most wing footboards use ball-lock pins requiring no tools – press the button on the end of the pin while removing or installing the pin
Some wing footboards use a bolt – 3/16” allen wrench
To remove the wing from its mounting bar
Rarely Done – ONLY to change white washers under wing, which are usually set at the shop and not changed
Wing rigger bolt – 3/16” allen wrench
To attach and remove wing rigger – use the large thumbscrews on the wing – NO tools
• Hold the wing level.
• Hold the bottom of the footboard with one hand, and the wing with the other.
• Rest the forward ends of the wing mounting bars on the screws in the forward mounting blocks.
• Allow the heelbar pin to slide into a slot in the stretcher fitting.
• Lower the aft end of the wing.
• Screw the thumbscrews into their mounting blocks. They should be tight.
• Make sure the heelbar pin is all the way down into a slot in the stretcher fitting.
• Make sure the white heelbar wing nuts are tight.
• Make sure that the footboard cannot move and does not click or rattle.
• If necessary adjust the length of the heelbar by loosening the wing nuts and sliding the bar.
• Use the heelbar to adjust the angle of the footboard.
• Once the wing is set for a particular footboard angle, you do not need to loosen the heelbar when installing the wing.
Traditional soft deck shell with carbon fiber tubular riggers
All rigging operations can be accomplished using a 5/32” allen wrench and an adjustable wrench
To remove and install riggers:
Rigger bolt – 5/32” allen wrench
To change the spread:
Lockplate bolt – 5/32” allen wrench
Lockplate nut – 7/16” hex wrench (socket, open end, etc.) (11mm also works) or adjustable wrench
To change the height of the oarlocks:
Top-of-pin nut – 10mm (for titanium pins) or 13mm (for stainless steel pins) hex wrench
Lockplate nut and top-of-pin nut – adjustable wrench is fine
Tips on general upkeep to help extend the life of your Van Dusen Advantage or Traditional rowing shell
On a daily basis during your rowing season:
Clean tracks and seat wheels with a rag or towel and water (grease may build up in the wheel bearings).
Hose down boat, especially the aluminum parts if you row on salt water or corrosive water.
Wipe down oarlocks. Excessive grease attracts dirt which will grind down the oarlock and oar-sleeves.
Open ports and stern cork to allow air to flow through the hull and dry out residual moisture.
Soap and water are usually sufficient to clean all surfaces, and washing your boat with Formula 409 will prevent river crud or salt from accumulating.
Several times a year:
Your boat should have an entire inspection, clean-up and lube job, especially if you row in salt water. This should be done before storing the boat for periods longer than a week or two.
Apply grease to all the metal parts that fit or bolt together. Spray-on oils, although convenient, do not last nearly as long, and their solvents may actually wash heavier oils away. These metal parts include the seat wheel bearings, lockplates, pins, wing rigger thumb screws. Take the parts apart to lube them, this will keep them easy to adjust in the future. Traditional Van Dusens require greasing of the rigger bolts.
The finish of your new Van Dusen racing shell is either two part polyurethane or epoxy gelcoat. It was sprayed into the mold before we constructed your boat. It is bonded into the outer layer of fiberglass during the heat and pressure curing process in our autoclave and is extremely durable. Minor scratches can be repaired with standard automotive polishing compound. Major scratches, usually the result of surprise meetings with a log, rock or dock, may require filling to retain a perfect hull finish.
Boat Serial Numbers
Location on boat
Traditional
Starboard side of the Stern Deck near the drain plug
The four digit hull number may be stamped on a piece of Aluminium on the upright under the inspection port near the splash board
The four digit hull number may be stamped on the lock plates of the rigger
Advantage
Starboard side of the Stern Deck near the drain plug
Written under the seat deck forward of the rope handle. The numbers are written backwards so if a mirror is placed in the inspection port near the splash board the numbers will read correctly.
Decoding
Van Dusen boats use the standard Coast Guard Number.
They are in the format: CIG#####X###
CIG is the Manufacturer ID code
The first 2 numbers after that is the kind of boat
Advantage Hull
16000 – Heavyweight Single
20000 – Flyweight Single
14000 – Lightweight Single
18000 – Heavyweight Double
17000 – Lightweight Double
Traditional Hull
01000 – Midweight Single
02000 – Heavyweight Single
03000 – Double
04000 – Lightweight Single
The next 3 numbers are sequential from the first boat made (i.e. 001)
The next letter is the month is was made
A – January
B – February
C – March
D – April
E – May
F – June
G – July
H – August
I – September
J – October
K – November
L – December
The next numbers is the year of the decade it was made. so a 5 could be 1975, 1985, 1995, or 2005
The last 2 numbers are the model year
An example: CIG14055E989 is the 55th Lightweight Single Advantage made. Manufactured May of 1989.
Kick-up rudder blade size #1 – used on racing K-1’s. For any less race-oriented boat, a size two or higher is recommended.
Kick-up rudder blade size #2 – used for K-2 or touring K-1
Kick-up rudder blade size #3 – used on our Mohican & surf skis
Our size three blade is the perfect fit for our Mohican, an Epic V10, or an Epic V12. We find that a size three blade is a good compromise between turning agility and drag at most speeds. If a surfski paddler is more concerned about maximum control at slow speeds and in sdverse conditions, a size four or larger (special order) fin may be required.
Kick-up rudder blade size #4 – extra slow speed control
We recommend this size four blade for surfski and Mohican paddlers that favor more steering control and roll stability. The size four blade is slightly oversized for an Epic V10 or Vand Dusen Mohican, and a higher performing option for a touring kayak.