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6 04, 2016

Wing Rigger set screw adjustment in the mounting block

By |2017-02-09T20:44:35+00:00April 6th, 2016|Categories: , |0 Comments

When you see that the mounting bar from your wing rigger has worn a groove in the mounting blocks you know that the adjustment of the set screw is past due:

Mounting bar from your wing rigger has worn a groove in the mounting blocks Mounting bar from your wing rigger has worn a groove in the mounting blocks

The conical point of the set screw fits in a matching hole in the end of the mounting bar and should be adjusted so the mounting bar never touches the block.  If the set screw is not in far enough it no longer locks the mounting bar in position and the rigger can move from side to side and up and down making balance and power transfer less accurate.
(PS – you might want to get your hearing checked; because, there is often a creaking noise every stroke.)

Proper adjustment keeps the mounting bar 1/2 mm (.02″) above the block and the screw should be adjusted so that the mounting bar is about 1/2 to 1 mm away from the vertical face of the mounting block.

Proper adjustment of set screw Proper adjustment of set screw
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1 03, 2014

How to complete shell rigging operations, Advantage or Traditional with wing rigger

By |2017-02-09T20:44:36+00:00March 1st, 2014|Categories: , |0 Comments

Advantage or Traditional with wing rigger

Most rigging adjustments can be made with a 3/16” allen wrench and an adjustable wrenc
To attach and remove wing rigger – use the large thumbscrews on the wing – NO tools

To change the spread:

Lockplate bolt – 5/32” allen wrench
Lockplate nut (white wing) – 7/16” hex wrench (socket, open end, etc.) (11mm OK)
Lockplate nut (black wing) – 10mm hex wrench
To change the height of the oarlocks:

Top-of-pin nut – 10mm (for titanium pins) or 13mm (for stainless steel pins) hex wrench
Lockplate nut and top-of-pin nut – adjustable wrench is fine

To change the footboard position on the wing mounting bars:

Most wing footboards use ball-lock pins requiring no tools – press the button on the end of the pin while removing or installing the pin
Some wing footboards use a bolt – 3/16” allen wrench

To remove the wing from its mounting bar

Rarely Done – ONLY to change white washers under wing, which are usually set at the shop and not changed

Wing rigger bolt – 3/16” allen wrench

To attach and remove wing rigger – use the large thumbscrews on the wing – NO tools

• Hold the wing level.
• Hold the bottom of the footboard with one hand, and the wing with the other.
• Rest the forward ends of the wing mounting bars on the screws in the forward mounting blocks.
• Allow the heelbar pin to slide into a slot in the stretcher fitting.
• Lower the aft end of the wing.
• Screw the thumbscrews into their mounting blocks. They should be tight.

• Make sure the heelbar pin is all the way down into a slot in the stretcher fitting.
• Make sure the white heelbar wing nuts are tight.
• Make sure that the footboard cannot move and does not click or rattle.

• If necessary adjust the length of the heelbar by loosening the wing nuts and sliding the bar.
• Use the heelbar to adjust the angle of the footboard.
• Once the wing is set for a particular footboard angle, you do not need to loosen the heelbar when installing the wing.

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1 03, 2014

How to complete rigging operations, Traditional soft deck shell with carbon fiber tubular riggers

By |2017-02-09T20:44:36+00:00March 1st, 2014|Categories: , |0 Comments

Traditional soft deck shell with carbon fiber tubular riggers

All rigging operations can be accomplished using a 5/32” allen wrench and an adjustable wrench

To remove and install riggers:

Rigger bolt – 5/32” allen wrench

To change the spread:

Lockplate bolt – 5/32” allen wrench
Lockplate nut – 7/16” hex wrench (socket, open end, etc.) (11mm also works) or adjustable wrench

To change the height of the oarlocks:

Top-of-pin nut – 10mm (for titanium pins) or 13mm (for stainless steel pins) hex wrench
Lockplate nut and top-of-pin nut – adjustable wrench is fine

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1 03, 2014

How to maintain your boat, general upkeep to extend the life

By |2014-03-01T18:25:56+00:00March 1st, 2014|Categories: , |0 Comments

Tips on general upkeep to help extend the life of your Van Dusen Advantage or Traditional rowing shell

On a daily basis during your rowing season:

Clean tracks and seat wheels with a rag or towel and water (grease may build up in the wheel bearings).

Hose down boat, especially the aluminum parts if you row on salt water or corrosive water.

Wipe down oarlocks. Excessive grease attracts dirt which will grind down the oarlock and oar-sleeves.

Open ports and stern cork to allow air to flow through the hull and dry out residual moisture.

Soap and water are usually sufficient to clean all surfaces, and washing your boat with Formula 409 will prevent river crud or salt from accumulating.

Several times a year:

Your boat should have an entire inspection, clean-up and lube job, especially if you row in salt water. This should be done before storing the boat for periods longer than a week or two.

Apply grease to all the metal parts that fit or bolt together. Spray-on oils, although convenient, do not last nearly as long, and their solvents may actually wash heavier oils away. These metal parts include the seat wheel bearings, lockplates, pins, wing rigger thumb screws. Take the parts apart to lube them, this will keep them easy to adjust in the future. Traditional Van Dusens require greasing of the rigger bolts.

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